Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
